5 Easy Clues for Dating Antique or Vintage Jewelry

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Early locking C clasps opened downwards, and more modern ones open upwards. Trifari and Coro advertised extensively during the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, as did many other costume jewelry companies. This type of catch was not very secure because the pin could slip out of the C.

I and my daughter love unique pieces. It is usually mounted in a preassembled unit, such as a bar, with a round hinge Fig. These marks can also make a tremendous difference on the value and collectability of the jewelry.

5 Easy Clues for Dating Antique or Vintage Jewelry - Improvements and modifications made throughout the 20th century. There are also a few vintage jewelry reference books that I can recommend: This wonderful and thorough reference book covers the collectible costume jewelry designs of 97 companies with over 1,200 photographs.

Whether updating a collection, searching for information about a family heirloom, or assisting a colleague or customer, dating a piece of vintage costume jewelry can present a challenge. Less familiar primary sources such as patents and copyrights, books about specific companies, and period advertisements also provide a wealth of information to assist with dating. For this article, examples from the mid-twentieth century will be provided, though the techniques and tools described here could be used for dating jewelry from other periods. After Trifari won a court case in 1955 for copyright infringement, patenting these types of designs was widely discontinued and replaced by the less-expensive process of design copyrighting. It is obvious that Trifari and Coro patent information can be used to date pieces of their manufacture. However, this information can also be used to assist with dating jewelry made by other companies. The patented designs from a given year or a given decade show the popularity of styles, materials and themes, and indicate the types of findings and the methods of construction being used for the time period. Prior to the early 1950s, typical necklace clasp styles used by Coro and Trifari were spring ring, push also known as box , or fold-over. In the 1950s, a new type of clasp using a hook and extender became popular for costume jewelry necklaces. The other types of clasps continued to be used, and are still used today. However, if you were dating a necklace that has an original hook-and-extender clasp, you could begin your research with the assumption that the piece was likely made no earlier than the 1950s. When available, copyright information can be used in the same manner. A great example is jewelry manufactured by Hollycraft during the 1950s. Since Hollycraft was not a huge manufacturer like Coro or Trifari, and had a more defined style, this information is not of great use in identifying general styles of the decade. However, determining findings popularly used is possible. For example, in looking at the use of clip-back and the use of screw-back findings for earrings, a survey of those currently for sale found that from 1950 through 1955, screw-backs were used about 30% of the time, and clip-backs 70 percent of the time. From 1956 through 1959, the survey found no examples of screw-back earring findings on the dated Hollycraft pieces. If attempting to date a pair of earrings with screw-back findings, this information can be used to focus your research to before the mid-1950s. Two great examples are Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer by Frank R. It is known that they were in business and marking jewelry with the Florenza brand beginning in the early 1950s until the company closed in February of 1981. The author is attempting to date pieces of this jewelry to specific decades. After summarizing this information in list form, one can note that large navettes and ovals, and givre stones were popular during the years 1957 through 1963. Also during this period, the company is producing necklace, bracelet, pin and earrings sets. Combining this information and specifics mentioned in these books, the author is dating this Florenza set to circa early 1960s. Another category of Florenza jewelry for dating research is the selection of large charm bracelets produced by the company, such as the two pictured here click on images for larger view : Referencing The Napier Co. Other sources confirm dating this style of Florenza charm bracelets to circa 1950s. Trifari and Coro advertised extensively during the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, as did many other costume jewelry companies. A large number of vintage advertisements and catalogs are available to view online, and the following websites have extensive examples: Researching Costume Jewelry at Milky Way Jewels at Morning Glory Antiques at Florenza Turquoise Parure Shown in 1963 Sears Catalog Many books also include photos of vintage advertisements and catalog pages. Palm Royale Jewelry Advertisement from 1946 with matching Palm Royale jewelry The three key primary dating tools, patents and copyrights, books about specific companies, and period advertisements, can be used as an initial step when researching a particular piece of jewelry. Once primary sources are exhausted, many well-regarded books are great secondary tools for dating. Carroll For Vintage Advertisements and Catalogues: Researching Costume Jewelry at Milky Way Jewels at Morning Glory Antiques at Recommended Books for Dating Information: Memoirs of a Fashion Jewelry Manufacturer by Frank R. Carroll Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry by C. She also creates artisan jewelry using vintage and natural stone beads, polymer clay and cork. Mary Ann is an expert on Selro jewelry, and also Florenza jewelry and the history of Dan Kasoff Inc. She has also written several articles for The Jewelry Ring, including a monthly column, Jewel Notes from Mary Ann. Before becoming a full-time jewelry dealer, Mary Ann spent many years in the financial services industry, first as a business-owner, and later as a relationship manager with a large international bank. She lives in Chicago with her husband, Randy Smith, and is an avid reader, traveler and gourmet cook.

Let's Learn About Jewelry Clasp Types
The trombone clasp, patented in Europe in 1850, was named after the musical instrument as it had a tube with a round top. It is made from the sap of a Malayan tree. The early C clasp continued to be very popular and was used on jewelry up until the early 1900s when the safety catch was invented. Improvements and modifications made throughout the 20th century. When fastened, the pin is invisible, so the two ornaments seem to float on the fabric. Larger versions were sold singly. She also creates artisan jewelry using vintage and natural stone beads, polymer clay and cork. The lobster claw clasp in use today is a fairly new design from the late 1970s, as is the toggle clasp. Some round hinges, though, can be found separately Fig. It was called English Crepe Stone. Also during this period, the company is producing necklace, bracelet, pin and earrings sets. The pin was kept within the C with tension created by the pin against the fabric to which it was attached.